JANE IN MOROCCO

To new beginnings!

My first steps on American soil were in Washington D.C., which is fitting since this is my new home for the next chapter of my life. Re-entry has been a whirlwind, but I loved post-program orientation. First we visited the Department of State, where we met with leaders at the Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, and afterwards we visited our representatives in Congress to speak about the importance of supporting study abroad programs. 

A farewell dinner with teachers and language partners

With four days left in Morocco, we had an end-of-year reflection activity to  celebrate all that we've learned on program. We went to a farm in the countryside, where we hiked, swam in a reservoir, and ate some of my favorite Moroccan food of the year (a beef tagine with prunes).

I was having a hard day today, when all of a sudden I stumbled upon a book I’ve been searching for for a while on the floor at a roadside stand. It’s called ساق البامبو, or The Bamboo Stalk. I started reading it on my walk home, and just like that I felt better.

In the evening we had a Kentucky Derby themed picnic by the ocean. We bet on horses, did arts and crafts, and played basketball.

Today was my end-of-year capstone presentation! I spoke for about half an hour (in my best Arabic) about my internship association and experience. About forty people were in attendance, including my host sister, language partner, and work colleagues. 

Happy May! Because of Labor Day in Morocco, we got the day off of school. Naturally, my friends and I went surfing!

A streetside carnival in Meknes

Today we took a day trip to Meknes (our last trip of the year). My favorite part was stopping at Volubilis along the way: an archeological site of 3rd century Roman ruins. The ruins were beautiful, the site was quiet and peaceful, and we came just in time to see the wildflower blooms in the plains.

At sunset, my host family and I had a picnic on the rooftop with our neighbors, who are from Palestine. We had coffee, tea, and traditional Middle Eastern desserts.

We are currently in our last week of normal classes, and we are staying busy! In the morning we had a lecture on religious extremism, and after class we visited a press outlet called The Voice to discuss press freedoms and the state of journalism in Morocco.

Today we had a calligraphy workshop in class, starting with a lecture on the history of calligraphy and the different styles of the scripts.

An Argan oil cooperative

A shawl called Tadelt

A sewing cooperative 

An olive oil cooperative

Over the Eid holiday, I traveled to the Sous region of southern Morocco with a group of women from my internship to assist in field research and partnership building. In total, we visited ten rural Amazigh women's cooperatives in the areas of Tiznit, Anzi, and Agadir. 

Mabrouk El Eid! Today Morocco celebrated Eid al-Fitr, the first of two main holidays in Islam. Marking the end of Ramadan, many Moroccans celebrate by gathering with family, wearing traditional dress, and getting henna tattoos.

On the 27th night of Ramadan, the streets come alive with celebrations for Laylat al-Qadr, one of the most sacred nights on the Islamic calendar. It is said that prayer on this night is worth more than 1,000 months of worship. In addition to being a day of worship, this is also the day when young children fast for the first time. To celebrate this milestone, they get their pictures taken in photo booths that line the streets.

Colors of the Rabat Medina

Small blue boats called flukas can take you across the river from Rabat to the neighboring city of Sale. It is easily the most convenient method of transportation: quicker than the tram and more convenient than the taxis, which cannot cross city lines.

Today we gathered with our teachers and language partners for a beach cleanup community service project. Then we concluded the day with a shared Iftar meal in the marina. I can't believe we are halfway through Ramadan!

My pottery!

After a long wait, we returned to the pottery workshop to paint the pieces we sculpted in December. I painted two pieces: a honey jar and a tea cup with a matching flower print. 

Today we had another group cooking class in a neighboring city. We cooked bestilla and rghifa — sweet and savory Moroccan pastries stuffed with meat — before breaking our fasts together in a big Iftar meal.

The beginning of Ramadan is marked by the sight of the crescent moon, meaning it starts on different days around the world. While many countries, including the US, started observing Ramadan on March 11, Morocco started on March 12. I just had my first Suhoor (pre-dawn) meal with my host family. Ramadan Kareem!

I live over an industrial bread bakery, meaning every meal, I get to eat fresh bread made 30 feet away from where I'm sitting. In the mornings, I always see workers filling trailers with bread, which they then bike to hanuuts (small Moroccan convenience stores). 

Today I attended a conference focused on human rights monitoring mechanisms (essentially, the different domestic and international standards in place to hold States accountable for human rights violations). I provided technical support and was also the photographer. I have a second conference tomorrow on legal reform, but in the meantime, Happy International Women's Day!

I recently learned the Arabic word for waterwheel (ناعورة), and I didn't find it practical until I stumbled upon a waterwheel in the Fez botanical gardens!

The ancient leather tanneries of Fez

This weekend we took a girls trip to Fez! Some highlights were traveling by train through the wildflower blooms in the countryside, seeing Al-Qarawiyyin University (the oldest university in the world), and sampling the street food and desserts in the old medina.

Today we took a day trip to Mohammedia, a city near Casablanca, to visit the Mohammed VI Foundation for the Edition of the Holy Quran. This visit was a lot more formal than I expected, which was a nice surprise! We talked in a meeting hall with about ten representatives from the foundation before getting a tour of the printing plant.

My friends and I cooked lunch together: cheese and onion stuffed Challah bread! First we stopped in the souks to pick up our ingredients.

We have had a number of amazing class visits recently. Last week we visited the National Council for Human Rights, and today we visited the Royal Institute of Amazigh Culture. IRCAM is widely known for its efforts to standardize Amazigh dialects in Morocco through the revival of the Tifinagh script.

Most Amazigh jewelry is made from silver, which is mined in southern Morocco. The headdress I am wearing, for example, is adorned with silver coins from an old currency. 

Traditional Amazigh dress

Today was another very special day! The president at my internship invited me, among other friends and colleagues, over to her house for couscous-making. I learned that couscous, like many Moroccan dishes, is of Amazigh origin. After our meal, we talked and listened to Amazigh music together. 

Preparing Moroccan mint tea

Happy Valentine's Day! Happy Birthday, Michele, and Happy Birthday to me! I celebrated today by opening up my stack of birthday cards, reciting medieval Arabic love poetry in class, and going to a dinner party. 

We had a cohort party to celebrate Lunar New Year! We all brought treats potluck-style and then prepared dumplings together. It was not easy cooking at school, but we made the most of what we had.

Today was a big day for me! After over a month of developing a grant proposal for my internship, I led a meeting to present the project framework, get feedback, and discuss the financial logistics of the budget. It was so rewarding collaborating with a team to bring my ideas to life.

Family-style meals are always special.

We cooked a traditional Moroccan dish called rfissa, which consists of chicken over a layer of shredded msmen. My favorite part was preparing the garnishes: hard-boiled quail eggs, and dates brushed with rose water and stuffed with walnuts.

Today we went to a nearby city, Temara, for a group cooking lesson with a local family. First we stopped in the souks to buy ingredients, including chicken, lentils, dates, and fruits. 

Feeling like a princess in my new kaftan

The Model UN party was held in a wedding venue, and it felt like Moroccan prom. I loved seeing all of the traditional Moroccan clothing, and getting to dance and socialize with Moroccans my age.

This weekend I attended a three-day Model UN conference with Moroccan high schoolers. The first day we listened to introductory speeches; the second day we practiced debating, according to Parliamentary Procedure; and the third day was a party. I represented the Delegation of Thailand in a debate over cultural recognition in Africa.  

Getting ready for a dinner party in Marrakesh, where we celebrated the halfway point through the academic year

Together we spent two days in Marrakesh. The old medina of Marrakesh is one of my favorite places in Morocco, so I spent most of my time there. I had so much fun using my Darija while bargaining with the shop vendors. This picture shows one of the stalls in Jemma El Fna, the main square in the old medina.

On the way to Marrakesh, we spent the night in Ouarzazate, where I learned about loom weaving during a visit to a cooperative.

My carpet from Tinghir

From Merzouga, we drove to Tinghir, a small city known for its palm tree oasis. Tinghir was a hidden gem for me. Our tour guide walked us through the agricultural fields, teaching us about traditional irrigation systems and the process of artificially pollinating date palms. He also talked about traditional construction methods. I learned that each building rests on a foundation of stones, and that the walls are composed of clay, mud, and straw. I also bought an Amazigh carpet in Tinghir. 

Me on my camel!

From Azrou, we drove down to Merzouga, a city near the Algerian border, where we spent the night sleeping in "tents" in the Sahara Desert. My favorite memory was staying up late on the sand dunes, eating snacks from the souks and watching shooting stars. 

After our stop in Ifrane, we spent the night in Azrou, a city famous for its cedar forests and wild monkeys. 

In Ifrane we tried a form of traditional Amazigh bread, cooked in a clay oven over rocks. It was delicious!

On the first day of our trip to the South, we stopped in Ifrane for a few hours. Ifrane is a rural, mountainous college town, home to Al-Akhawayn University. The architecture is very European, as the city was built under French colonial influence. Still, Ifrane felt very quiet and cozy to me.

I just gave my final presentation of the semester—a practice run for the  capstone presentation in May. The quote on my slide says, "Amazigh identity was sacrificed for the sake of nation building."

My host family gifted me this beautiful kaftan for New Year's. To celebrate, my host sister and I spent the day together: We went to the traditional Moroccan hammam, painted each other's nails, watched movies, and danced until the countdown hit 0! 

Today I attended a national symposium on language policy and the teaching of the Amazigh language in schools. My internship helped organize the event and extended me an invitation, and I was so excited to meet other Moroccans working in this space. 

The sunrise on my walk to school

I loved seeing our cohort come together to celebrate Christmas far from home. After our morning brunch (consisting of french toast, pancakes, bagels, cookies, fruit, and more), we watched Christmas movies and sang along to our favorite Christmas songs. We drank hot chocolate, and for a Moroccan touch, mint tea!

Later for Christmas dinner, per the tradition, we ordered Chinese takeout and ate in a circle on the floor.

The classic Christmas movie

My host family and I baked holiday cookies together while singing "All I Want for Christmas is You"—the one song that everyone seems to know.

The Moroccan Parliament is bicameral, consisting of the House of Representatives and the House of the Councillors. Today we toured the chamber of the House of Representatives. The seat above me is where the King stands to deliver his annual speech to Parliament in the fall.

A visit to MAP (Maghreb Arab Press), the official press outlet of the Moroccan government

Today my friend and I attended a Christmas concert hosted by the Czech embassy. We listened to classical Christmas music and had a small chat with the Czech ambassador.

Evening sunset walks by the beach

I sculpted this piece on the pottery wheel, with some help of course! It will get baked in the ovens, and then I will return to paint it next month.

Today we had a pottery workshop in Salé after class, where we learned about the meticulous process of making ceramics, from sifting the clay to painting the final product.

What an action-packed day! After morning brunch, a few friends and I went to a Christmas crafts fair at the Rabat American School, where we ran into the US ambassador to Morocco. After the fair, we went to a sports club to swim for a few hours. Finally, at the end of the day, we stopped by an art exhibition focusing on queer identity in Morocco. 

Exploring a new neighborhood

Today we had an amazing guest lecture from Zainab Fasiki, a Moroccan feminist activist and graphic artist. She was so cool! She has a book called Hshouma, meaning "shame" in Darija, where she discusses the treatment of gender and sexuality in Moroccan culture. 

If you order a family platter at Yamal Asham (the Syrian restaurant), the waiters deliver it to you singing!

On the last day of our Taounate excursion, we worked with a family harvesting olives on their farm. To collect the olives, we climbed the trees and shook the branches until the olives fell onto the tarp below. Then we gathered the olives, one by one, into small wooden baskets. 

Leading the donkeys to collect water

We brought back two chickens from the souks for dinner!

The souks of Taounate

This weekend we took a trip to Taounate, a rural town in northern Morocco. We came for olive harvesting season and spent two nights living in a homestay. It was my favorite trip so far. 

Today we took a class trip to the International Children’s and Youth Book Fair in Casablanca. Afterwards we re-visted, and entered, the Hassan II Mosque.

This morning we had a lecture on the Rif, a region of northern Morocco. We learned about the war for independence, decolonization, and American journalism in the Rif in the 20th century.

Exploring Asilah

My favorite part of Asilah was the street art. The alleys of the medina were filled with murals like this one!

On the drive back to Rabat from Tangier, we stopped for lunch in Asilah, a sleepy, coastal town.

During a visit to the Moshe Nahon Synagogue, I learned about Jewish heritage in Tangier.

Altogether we spent three days in Tangier. In the mornings, we visited famous sites like the Cap Spartel lighthouse and the American legation museum. In the afternoons, we had free time to wander through the streets of the old medina. My favorite part of Tangier was the citrus trees that lined the streets. And the paella, of course!

On the drive to Tangier from Chefchaouen, we stopped in Akchour, another small town with beautiful mountain ridges and waterfalls.

These steps are one of my favorite landmarks in Morocco!

We started our fall trip with a night in Chefchaouen, also known as "The Blue City," which is nestled in the Rif Mountains of northern Morocco.

Exploring the botanical gardens with my language partner!

This morning we visited a farm in the countryside just outside of Rabat. After wandering through the orchards of lemon and avocado trees, we had a small brunch and then departed to watch a soccer game between two local teams.

Lunch at a Moroccan restaurant

Today my friend and I traveled by train to Kenitra, an area north of Rabat.  The highlight of our trip was going to the coastal town of Mehdya. The beach was very clean (compared to Rabat), the waves were wonderful, and I even got to ride a camel!

The coast of Salé

We visited the Madrasa of Abu al-Hasan, a school that was built in the 14th century and is no longer in use. This is a picture from the prayer room of the madrasa showing the mihrab, or the niche in the wall indicating the direction of the Kaaba in Mecca.

Today we had a historical tour of Salé -- the city neighboring Rabat, and the second-largest city in Morocco. The tour was amazing! My favorite part was learning about medieval Salawi pirates. Our guide was a historian who works to restore cultural sites in the old medina.

My class took a field trip to the Museum of the Prophet's Biography And Islamic Civilization, which is a temporary UNESCO exhibit in Rabat. This is a picture of the Qur'an, written by hand over the course of three years.

Every year the King gives a speech to Parliament in the fall. Today I got to watch the King's entrance and exit parade from the front of the barricade!

Happy Birthday, Mom ♡

Making harcha!

Today we visited a small bakery in Salé, where we learned how to make msemmen, a Moroccan flatbread, and harcha, which resembles cornbread. Harcha was my favorite, and I hope to try baking it with my host family.

A landmark on my walk to school

After buying my first djellaba in the old medina, I stopped for golden hour at Kasbah Des Oudaias.

Exploring the Habous Quarter

Dar Bacha, an administrative building with the architecture of an Andalusian palace!

Today we took a day trip to Casablanca. Unfortunately the Hassan II Mosque was closed due to the national holiday, but we will return again one day, inshallah.

After being sick for a few days, I was finally able to hang out after school, walk home, and enjoy the sunshine!

Today I discovered a small jewelry shop in the medina. Then I made bracelets with my host sister from last summer.

If I catch an early tram, I can read before school!

Most Moroccans hang their clothes out on the roof to dry. Today, while taking down my clothes with my sister, I got to watch a beautiful sunset.

During my first meeting with my language partner, I visited Kasbah Des Oudaias, an Almoravid fortress by the coast. 

A hidden gem in Rabat's old medina

Pre-departure orientation in Washington D.C.!